Gaudi day
Feb 10, 2009: Mention Barcelona and one of the first things that springs to mind is Gaudí. Mention Gaudí and most people will immediately get a mental image of bizarre church spires.
The Sagrada Familia (Holy Family) cathedral was, of course, near the top of our list of things to see, but it is only a fraction of the incredible influence Antoni Gaudi had on Barcelona before his untimely demise when he was run over by a streetcar.
We decided to start out with Parc Güell. There are a couple of Metro stops near the park, but since we were staying beside a commuter rail station, we decided to take the FGC as far as Gràcia station and walk from there (15-20 min). Gràcia is an interesting, bohemian neighbourhood and our stroll through it was a nice way to ease into the day, although we did witness a bit of unexpected drama as a workman took a nasty fall from a ladder right in front of us (he landed with a fairly heavy thump, but the staff from the orthopaedic products shop he was hanging a sign on — no kidding — rushed out to help, and there was a major hospital right across the street). Figuring he wouldn’t benefit greatly from a couple of tourists gawking at him, we went on our way.
The ‘easy’ way up the hill to Parc Güell is to take the street escalator from just off the Avinguda de l’Hospital Militar. Considering they’re outdoor, the escalators are in remarkably good condition. A fine view of the city unfolds as you head up, but try not to get dumped on your backside because you’re looking the wrong way as you reach the top of each section.
We got to the metal steps that take you to the park, only to find that they were cordoned off for repairs. The only indication that the park was accessible was this ‘sign’ stuck in the branches of a tree about three metres off the ground. *
(* After coming back to Ireland, I was talking to a colleague who had also been in Barcelona around the same time. I asked him if he had been to Parc Güell. He said he had gone there, but that it was closed – turns out he just hadn’t seen the detour sign.)
We followed the sign, which sent us back down the hill, meaning we were starting from the bottom again, this time without the escalator.
All the inconvenience was forgotten instantly, however, when we reached the park, a Willy Wonka wonderland of mosaics, colonnaded walkways and magical childlike touches everywhere.
At the entrance, tourists mill around open-mouthed (it was crowded on this February morning – I can’t imagine it’s as much fun at peak season), ducking and diving as they take their own photos and try to stay out of other people’s.
Curves and colours dominate, and the whole structure looks less like something designed by an architect/artist than like a huge organism that just sprouted up out of the ground. Dotted around the park were musicians and merchants, and everywhere there were teachers doing their best to keep control of school tour groups.
Entry to the park is free. There is also a Gaudí museum in the grounds (entry €4), but we didn’t go, as we had to hurry off to our next destination.
Casa Batllò
This building, designed by Gaudí for industrialist Josep Batllò, is quite simply the most amazing house I’ve ever set foot inside. Travelling on a shoestring, we had initially been worried about shelling out €16 each for the full ticket (including the attic and roof). It turned out to be worth every cent. Like in Parc Güell, Gaudí let his imagination run riot, but this time in a more restricted space and with many pragmatic touches. Actually, I’ll shut up now, and just let Gaudí do the talking . . .
One of the great things about this masterpiece is that while walking through what seems like a dream, you can imagine that it would also be a comfortable and pleasant building to live in – indeed there are doors on several floors marked ‘Private’, which, I believe, are offices.
I’ll only fall miserably short of conveying the atmosphere of Casa Batllò in words — it was never meant to be described verbally anyway — so all I can say is if these pictures aren’t enough, get on a plane, go there, see, and feel, it for yourself.
Sagrada Família
We rounded off our ‘Gaudí day’ by heading to the church of the Sagrada Família. Getting your first glimpse, up close, of the surreal façade is one of those spine-tingling travel moments, like your first view of the Eiffel Tower or the Great Wall of China. You’ve seen countless pictures, heard endless stories, but BLOODY HELL THIS IS REALLY IT!
It’s probably a good idea to stop walking while you’re surveying the almost liquefied montage of Bible scenes — otherwise you’re going to trip over something or bump chins with another gaping tourist.
Had it not been getting late, we could have spent hours staring; instead we headed on in for me to be confronted with an ignorance-induced surprise.
Okay, confession time (appropriate in a Catholic church): I had no idea that the Sagrada Familia wasn’t actually in use. I was expecting worshippers scattered among the pews, and the smell of incense and candles; instead, we walked straight into a construction site.
Since Gaudí shuffled off this mortal coil a wee bit early, his greatest work is still being completed. Predictably, there’s no shortage of rows over whether “it’s what he would have wanted”, but he did leave plenty of blueprints, drawings and scale models behind, so presumably they’re on the right track.
One interesting feature is what I call ‘Gaudí’s sacred sudoku’. We noticed it first of all as a small detail on the door at the entrance.
Then we noticed that it was repeated in several places. We eventually came across the explanation. All the verticals, horizontals and diagonals add up to 33, as do the four smaller groups of four at the corners. The number 33 stands for the age of Christ when he was crucified.
As so often happens due to our habit of travelling during the off-peak season, the lift to the tower was closed. We did get to see a small but enlightening exhibition in the crypt.
We couldn’t have left at a better time. A word of advice: try to be at the back of the Sagrada Familia as the sun begins to set. The effect it has on the rear of the church last only a few minutes but is stunning.
Any of the three sights we got to see could be regarded as a career-defining masterpiece. That Gaudí produced all of them is simply astonishing.
We didn’t even get to see La Pedrera — by some accounts the best of all Gaudí’s works — and the city is dotted throughout with his fanciful creations. He was 74 when he died, but apparently still a powerful creative force. What would Barcelona look like today if he had lived another 10 years?
Created with flickrSLiDR.
February 10, 2009 11:39 pm 
